Reviews

Shrewsbury St. Restaurant Adds Dishes, Replaces Placemat Menu: Table Hoppin’
TELEGRAM & GAZETTE
By Barbara Houle TELEGRAM & GAZETTE FOOD EDITOR
July 19, 2007

When a restaurant first opens there’s usually a kink or two to be worked out. No real surprise to hear of a few changes at VIA Italian Table, 89 Shrewsbury St., Worcester.

Robb and Madeleine Ahlquist, owners of The Sole Proprietor and 111 Chop House, both in Worcester, opened VIA in April.

The place has great atmosphere, wonderful wines, outside seating for about 100 and a menu geared for people who like Italian food.

Executive chef Roberto Dias recently tweaked the menu to “lighten it up.” He explained that VIA’s original menu reflected dishes that were created for a winter grand opening. That didn’t happen as a result of unexpected delays, Dias said.

When opening day finally rolled around, the Ahlquists decided to run with the menu already in place. “There really wasn’t time for change,” Dias said.

It seems diners clamor for simplicity these days. Dias has added new entrées to include scallops with a pesto cream (sinfully delicious) and roasted asparagus and veal marsala with grilled zucchini planks. A Caprese salad with grilled shrimp uses fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil.

Italian green beans and fresh lemon and pea risotto are offered with a duck trio.

Seasonal ingredients are big with this chef. It’s all about flavor and fresh ingredients. Like most chefs, he wants to accommodate customers.

Another noted change: VIA opened with its menu written on paper placemats. Gonzo! Too informal, you think? Traditional menus have replaced the paper ones.

Diners will be happy to learn that the restaurant continues to makes its own sauces, bread and pizzas.

Monday, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., Dias will be at the Greater Worcester Farmers Market, 306 Chandler St. (Beaver Brook parking lot), Worcester, to prepare and hand out fresh cold-cut sandwiches.

He will use fresh ingredients, such as tomatoes, grown by the farmers. The sandwiches are free to customers, courtesy of VIA Italian Table.

It’s a good time to meet the chef.